Devon Character Areas

Looking towards Mullacott AONB boundary across a rolling patchwork of hedgerow-bound fields. © North Devon Coast AONB.

Contextual description

This Devon Character Area (DCA) is located to the north of Barnstaple and comprises high open farmland interspersed with secluded wooded valleys. To the north is the North Devon High Coast DCA with its coastal combes; to the east a gradual transition to the wooded, intricate landscapes of the Exmoor Fringe DCA; to the south a gradual transition to the Codden Hill and Wooded Estates, and a more abrupt transition (marked by the change in topography) to the Taw-Torridge Estuary DCA. Finally, to the west is a gradual transition (with increasing coastal influence) to the North Devon Coastal Downs DCA. All of the landscape is within North Devon District.

Link to National Character Areas and Constituent Landscape Character Types

Constituent LCTs: 3C Sparsely Settled Farmed Valley Floors, 3H Secluded Valleys and 5C Downland.

This DCA falls within the Exmoor National Character Area (NCA 145).

Summary character description

This is a simple, agricultural landscape dominated by the sky within an open, westerly aspect. The smooth hills have rounded profiles, and are covered by a patchwork of large, regular fields. Views are long and wide, sometimes with glimpses of the sea or estuary as a backdrop. The steep valleys which punctuate the downland (LCT 3H) run like wooded ribbons across the landscape, contrasting with the farmland in their rich colours and textures. These valleys have a secluded and secretive character. They are very tranquil, the only sounds often being birds and running water; and their sunken lanes have a timeless quality.

Pastoral fields enclosed by hedgerows on valley slopes east of Goodleigh.

Distinctive characteristics

• Northern and coastal areas underlain by banks of resistant Morte slate; southern parts underlain by softer banks of sandstone, shales and mudstone, resulting in more undulating topography.
• Rolling downland with broad rounded ridges and hilltops, sloping in the south to meet Barnstaple and the Taw-Torridge estuary.
• Springs and small streams in steep-sided, V-shaped valleys, and combes carving through the downland.
• Strongly agricultural landscape, with a rural character, pastoral fields in valleys, and a mixture of pastoral and arable use on better quality soils on higher land.
• Mixture of medium-sized curving medieval fields (particularly in valleys) and larger post-medieval and modern fields with straight boundaries; some remaining areas of open downland.
• Fields divided by grassy Devon banks with wind-pruned gorse and scrub (in areas of coastal exposure), flower-rich banks with mixed-species hedges, locally distinctive Morte slate-faced banks, and square-cut beech hedgebanks in locations closer to Exmoor.
• Post-and-wire fences enclose some of the more intensively farmed fields.
• Valley sides often densely wooded with sessile oak woods, beech-dominated broadleaved woodland, wet woodland on valley floors, and some conifer plantations.
• Sparse woodland cover on upland areas, limited to occasional blocks of coniferous plantation, small farm woods and wind-sculpted pine shelterbelts. Sporadic beech clumps and avenues mark prominent ridgelines (e.g. above Shirwell Cross).
• Extensive areas of valley-side ancient woodland, plus fragmented species-rich acidic and neutral grassland, rush pasture, scrub and bracken.
• Clusters of nationally important prehistoric features including barrows on ridgelines and Iron Age hillforts near Knowle and Burridge.
• Parkland estates in the southern parts of the area lending a softer, designed character and providing rich wildlife habitats notable for their lichens, wood decay invertebrates and rare bats.
• Stone bridges, mills, weirs, and disused quarries reflect the valleys' industrial heritage.
• Strong vernacular including cream and whitewashed cob/render; exposed local stone with slate roofs, and some thatch (e.g. at Heanton, Punchardon and Prixford).
• Characteristic square stone church towers in villages forming local landmarks, some of which are Grade I listed, notably at Marwood, Shirwell, West Down and Heanton Punchardon.
• Dispersed farmsteads sited in dips in the landform and small nucleated villages and hamlets located in tributary valleys and around crossroads. Much of the area remains undeveloped.
• Caravan and holiday parks, as well as other tourism-related land uses such as fishing lakes, influence character especially in locations close to coast.
• Straight roads enclosed by hedgebanks across upland areas, with occasional gaps providing long views across the landscape; steep, twisting valley roads between fern-rich banks.
• Expansive views from hill summits westwards to the coast and estuary and eastwards towards Exmoor National Park, contrasting with the secluded and intimate character of the valleys.
• Turbines at Fullabrook Down Wind Farm and Mullacott Cross Business Park, as well as communication masts at Shirwell Cross, form prominent vertical features on the skyline.

Long view west towards the coast from Shirwell Road near Coxleigh Barton.

Special qualities and features

High scenic quality, with northern parts of the area contributing to the setting of the North Devon Coast Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and Exmoor National Park.

Smooth rolling skylines that form the backdrop and setting to surrounding settlements and protected landscapes.

Historic field systems enclosed by relict medieval hedgebanks, a locally distinctive landscape feature.

Bradiford Valley Site of Special Scientific Interest, with ancient oak woodland, mill pond, leat, stream and meadow habitats.

Extensive areas of ancient semi-natural woodland on valley sides and numerous County Wildlife Sites.

Several Regionally Important Geological Sites covering geological exposures, including at Vyse and Bittadon Quarries and a geological SSSI at Plaistow Quarry18th-century.

Large numbers of Scheduled Monuments - including prehistoric barrows, camps, hillforts and earthworks - often in prominent elevated positions in the landscape.

18th century registered parkland at Youlston Park (Grade II) and Castle Hill estate (Grade I), of national significance for the number of veteran and ancient trees supported. Part of the National Trust-owned Arlington Court estate also falls within the DCA.

Conservation Areas covering the historic village cores of Ashford, Heaton Punchardon, Marwood and West Down. Listed churches with landmark square towers including at Marwood, Goodleigh, West Down, Heanton Punchardon, and Shirwell.

Locally high levels of tranquillity, especially in the secluded valleys away from settlements and major roads.

A good network of lanes, tracks and public rights of way providing recreational access, including sections of the Tarka Trail and Macmillan Way.

Marwood Hill Gardens are open to the public and incorporate a diverse collection of plants.

Forces for change and their landscape implications

Past and current

• Recreation pressures, including visually intrusive caravan parks and tourist development in areas close to the coast (e.g. East Stowford Barton).
• Increased farm, industrial and recreational traffic on rural roads, reducing tranquillity and damaging hedgebanks.
• Decline in woodland management reducing age- and species-diversity, and localised replanting of ancient oak woodland with conifers, particularly in the secluded valleys.
• Loss of mature trees and woodland from pests and disease such as ash dieback ash dieback (Hymenoscyphus fraxineus) disease.
• Agricultural intensification, resulting in increase of land in arable cultivation, loss of hedgerows and other wildlife habitats, and scrubbing-up of under-grazed marginal land on steep valley sides.
• Past hedgerow removal and replacement with post-and-wire fencing, affecting the integrity of field patterns.
• Construction of visually prominent, large-scale buildings (barns, industrial estates, etc.) changing the open and undeveloped character of the landscape.
• New residential developments using materials and styles that are not in keeping with the local vernacular
• Modern development on settlement edges (e.g. Barnstaple, Braunton, Northam and Westward Ho!) can be seen in views across the Taw-Torridge Estuary.
• Light spill from surrounding settlements, impacting on the experience of dark night skies and reducing the visibility of stars.
• The cumulative impact of vertical skyline features on hills summits including telecommunications masts, the wind farms at Fullabrook Down and Mullacott Business Park, as well as occasional farm-based turbines.
• Solar farms becoming more frequent within the landscape, often associated with farms, including at West Hill Farm (approx.19 ha), Hartland View (5 ha) and Barton Close Farm (5 ha).

Turbines at Fullabrook Down Wind Farm near Halsinger form prominent vertical features on the elevated plateau which has an otherwise smooth profile.

Future

• Uncertain, but opportunistic, future for the agricultural economy - the form of future agri-environment support through emerging Environmental Land Management scheme, nature of food production demands and market prices for farmed products, including as a result of Brexit, is unclear.
• Potential for new food crops (e.g. vineyards) and other crop types (medicinal, bio-energy) appearing in the landscape as a result of a change in climate and market conditions.
• Increase in UK-based tourism and recreation (intensified as a result of the Covid-19 pandemic) with associated requirements for new facilities and infrastructure, including farm conversions and more camping/caravan sites, as well as an increase in traffic.
• Population increases in nearby settlements (e.g. Braunton, Barnstaple and Goodleigh) resulting in pressure for new residential and commercial developments.
• Potential loss of or change in oak and beech-dominated valley woodlands due to spread of Phytophthora or other pests and diseases linked to changing climate, intolerance of water level extremes and more frequent storm events.
• Hedgerow trees, beech clumps, avenues and veteran parkland trees may become increasingly susceptible to damage from the increasing frequency and magnitude of storm events.
• Longer growing season and faster growth of bracken, gorse and secondary woodland resulting in a decrease in remaining areas of acidic and neutral grassland and rush pasture.
• More intense periods of drought leading to the drying out of important wetland habitats, including rush pasture.
• Increased autumn and winter precipitation levels leading to higher water levels and seasonal flooding in the valleys.
• Further renewable energy schemes, including offshore and onshore wind turbines, solar arrays on south-facing slopes, small-scale hydro-power and domestic-scale renewables impacting on character and views.

Wind turbines at Fullabrook Down dominate views north-west from Garmans Down (north of Shirwell).

Landscape guidelines

Protect

• Protect the landscape's far-reaching views (including those to the coast and Exmoor National Park) and flowing open skylines, avoiding unsympathetically sited development. Ensure local church towers remain landmark features on skylines.
• Protect and appropriately manage the landscape's archaeological heritage including prehistoric burial sites and ancient hilltop enclosures, providing sensitive interpretation where appropriate.
• Protect and repair characteristic traditional built heritage features (e.g. stone bridges).
• Protect and manage the landscape's historic parkland estates, ensuring that the location of any new development does not affect their setting or designed views.
• Protect parkland trees from damage to their root systems through ploughing or agricultural inputs. Retain veteran trees as wildlife habitats and new generations of open grown trees should be encouraged.
• Protect the sparse settlement pattern of farmsteads and nucleated villages and hamlets nestled in valleys and landform dips.
• Protect the character of rural lanes, resisting intrusive signage, lighting and unsympathetic highway works.
• Protect the landscape's undeveloped, rural character and high levels of tranquillity through the control and management of development, including highways and associated lighting.
• Protect the dark night skies that are characteristic of the area. Explore opportunities to limit light pollution around settlements and along major road corridors such as the A361 and A39.

Manage

• Manage and enhance the landscape's valley-side ancient woodlands using traditional techniques such as coppicing to maximise age diversity and to achieve a species diversity appropriate to the local conditions. Control access by livestock, promoting natural regeneration to enhance longevity whilst using extensive grazing to promote the species diversity of woodland ground flora.
• Manage the beech clumps and pine shelterbelts which form characteristic features within the open landscape.
• Manage and enhance species-rich Devon hedgebanks through the regular coppicing of characteristic wind-sculpted hedgerow trees and re-laying of gappy sections to reinforce irregular medieval field patterns.
• Replace lost lengths of field boundary, respecting traditional bank styles and species composition, particularly in locations perpendicular to slopes, to help reduce soil erosion and run-off into watercourses.
• Manage and enhance the wildlife interest of agricultural fields by encouraging the creation of uncultivated field margins, reducing hedge cutting cycles, introducing grass buffer strips around intensively farmed fields and other wildlife-friendly farming methods (also reducing diffuse pollution draining from the downland).
• Manage and re-link fragmented patches of species-rich grassland and rush pasture, supporting farmers to extensively graze these areas as integral parts of their farming systems.
• Manage the scale and distribution of renewable energy developments, (particularly farm-based wind and solar schemes) to ensure they do not cumulatively become a key characteristic of the landscape.

Plan

• Plan for farm diversification and changes to agriculture as a result of market pressures (including Brexit and increased demand for domestic food production) and the new Environmental Land Management schemes.
• New crops may become viable as a result a changing climate and the potential landscape impacts of these should be considered.
• Respond to the UK-wide policy drive for woodland planting in line with the Devon Local Nature Partnership Right Place, Right Tree guidance to ensure the distinctive characteristics of the landscape are retained and enhanced, whilst contributing to the provision of sustainable timber supplies, ecosystem services (including access and recreation), and nature recovery networks.
• Avoid new woodland planting where trees would adversely affect valued characteristics of the landscape including prominent hilltop monuments, long views and the expansive, open character of higher ground. Plan new planting in line with Devon Local Nature Partnership's Right Place, Right Tree principles.
• Plan for the diversification and future sustainability of conifer plantations in the landscape, exploring options for mixed stocking, the restoration of open habitats such as species-rich grasslands and opportunities for access/recreation.
• Create, link and extend woodland and wetland habitats to benefit landscape character, enhance the water storage capacity of the landscape (reducing incidences of downstream flooding) and improve water quality by reducing soil erosion and agricultural run-off. Natural woodland regeneration should be encouraged, and new planting (using climate-hardy species) undertaken to link fragmented sites.
• Develop green infrastructure links within and between coastal settlements, creating opportunities for sustainable access and recreation inland, to take pressure off popular coastal destinations.
• Plan to accommodate an increasing local population. Ensure new residential development is carefully sited and designed in accordance with sustainable development principles and in-keeping with local vernacular styles/materials, with new development appropriately linked to facilities and infrastructure.
• Where possible, implement landscape mitigation measures to soften the visual impact of existing poorly sited/designed development.
• Ensure that any new development respects local vernacular building styles and settlement forms, whilst incorporating sustainable design.
• Plan for increased amounts of tourism and access (including within the valley woodlands), along with related demand for facilities including accommodation, access and transport links.
• Ensure new energy and telecoms infrastructure (including masts and renewable energy installations), are sited in appropriate locations and their impacts mitigated through careful design.
• Explore the potential for small-scale hydro-electric power from the area's streams, avoiding adverse effects on ecology and landscape.

DCA 44 North Devon Downs (PDF, 1 MB)