Devon Character Areas

Long views across undulating pastoral farmland with farmsteads nestled within.

Contextual description

This Devon Character Area (DCA) abuts the southern and western boundaries of Exmoor National Park. It is bounded to the west by the more open landscape of the North Devon Downs DCA and to the south by the South Molton Farmlands and Witheridge and Rackenford Moor DCAs. This area of enclosed pastoral land is incised by deep north-south wooded valleys and rises northwards to the Exmoor moorland edge, where there is a clear landscape transition. All of the DCA is within North Devon District.

Link to National Character Areas and Constituent Landscape Character Types

Constituent Landscape Character Types (LCTs) include 2D Moorland edge slopes and 3D Upland river valleys.

This DCA forms part of The Culm National Character Area (NCA 149).

A characteristic stone bridge crossing a tributary west of Molland, with views towards the densely wooded valley across marshy grassland grazed by sheep.

Summary character description

This landscape of rolling, interlocking ridges, deeply incised by river valleys and patterned by beech hedges, provides an important setting and transition to Exmoor and its dark sky reserve. The upland river valleys drain southwards from the high moorland, forming deep clefts in the landscape that contain clean, fast-flowing water and are clothed in ancient oak woodlands. The Bray Valley is the major landscape feature of the western part of the area; further east the valleys are shorter, steeper and narrower. Tree features and hilltop clumps form notable landmarks. The area is sparsely settled, with individual farmsteads and small hamlets and vernacular buildings that are mainly of sandstone and slate. Viewed from the south, the area forms the foreground landscape to Exmoor. Viewed from the north it forms a diverse and strongly patterned patchwork of fields and wooded valleys.

Wooded tributary valley (between North Molton and Molland) with grazing sheep on pastoral valley sides.

Distinctive characteristics

• Elevated land with rolling topography, underlain by Devonian sandstone around the edges of Exmoor, with a transition southward to Upcott Slate and the softer siltstones and mudstones of the Culm Measures.
• Landscape crossed by streams and springs draining into the steeply incised wooded valleys, with clear fast-flowing streams draining southwards from the high moorlands of Exmoor.
• Remnants of traditional orchards (e.g. Loxhore Mill, Newtown Bridge and near Brayford).
• Mixture of regular modern and parliamentary fields of small to medium scale, with smaller curving fields of medieval origin remaining on valley slopes; field patterns strong and intact.
• Square-cut beech hedgebanks and historic banks on the edge of Exmoor; more species-diverse Devon hedges (e.g. beech, sycamore, ash and gorse) with flower, fern and moss-rich banks on lower valley slopes.
• Mainly sheep grazing in improved pasture fields and rough grazing on areas of rush pasture on the edges of Exmoor; some horse keeping around settlements (e.g. Stoke Rivers) plus occasional arable.
• Higher ground sparsely wooded, with grown out wind-sculpted beech hedgebanks and some pine shelterbelts; in contrast, valley sides densely wooded - including ancient oak woods with a rich ground flora; beech-dominated woodlands; wet woodlands; and conifer plantations.
• Further nature conservation interest provided by patches of gorse, bracken, mire, acid grasslands and remnant heath on upper slopes; and areas of species-rich meadow on steep valley sides and rush pasture fringing streams.
• Strong time-depth provided by Bronze Age barrows and Iron Age hillforts in commanding positions above valleys (e.g. at Five Barrows Hill and Berry Hill) and ancient settlement remains - all Scheduled Monuments.
• Legacy of past industrial features such as stone bridges, mills, quarries and dismantled railways. Some operational quarries remain today (e.g. Bray Valley Quarry).
• Historic hamlets and villages at road crossings and bridging points, often centered around a square-towered stone church (e.g. High Bray). Farmsteads scattered throughout, often nestled in sheltered dips.
• Some larger settlements including linear housing spread outside their historic cores (e.g. Brayford and North Molton).
• Strong local vernacular of sandstone buildings with slate roofs, red brick detailing and some thatch (e.g. Heanton Punchardon and Prixford); along with cream and whitewashed cob/ render cottages.
• Straight roads enclosed by hedgebanks across upland areas, with occasional gaps providing long views across the landscape; steep, twisting valley lanes between fern-rich banks.
• Farm diversification evident including caravan, camping and holiday parks and farm shops, plus other tourism-related land uses.
• Expansive views from hill summits, contrasting with the secluded and intimate character experienced within valleys.
• Popular recreational area with numerous public rights of way (including long-distance trails) for walking, cycling, fishing and other outdoor pursuits.

Steep wooded river valley with sheep grazed pasture and distant views to Fullabrook Down Wind Farm.

Special qualities and features

Distinctive, unspoilt, and very exposed skylines below the Exmoor moorland edge and abutting the National Park.

High scenic quality, playing a key role as part of the setting of Exmoor National Park.

Outstanding views across North Devon, both northwards towards Exmoor and southwards into the heart of Devon.

Sense of isolation, tranquillity and remoteness, enhanced by natural qualities of the rivers and valley woodlands - one of the most tranquil landscapes in Devon, with dark night skies.

Moorland influence in vegetation with rich, varied wildlife habitats including part of the wider South Exmoor Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and Exmoor Heaths Special Area of Conservation. Several County Wildlife Sites for ancient woodland on valley sides.

Many Scheduled Monuments, concentrated in the northwest of the area, including prominent Bronze Age barrows on Bampfylde Hill, Berry Hill and the summits of Bratton Down; Iron Age hillforts including Smythapark and Castle Roborough; and North Thorne medieval settlement remains.

National Trust-owned Regency Arlington Court estate, a Grade II* Registered Park and Garden with 19th century parkland and historic wood pasture which is designated as a SSSI for its rich lichen and invertebrate communities.

Picturesque villages with traditional buildings linked by narrow winding lanes crossing historic stone bridges; many listed buildings and two Conservation Areas at Molland and North Molton.

A number of public rights of way cross the landscape, including parts of the Macmillan Way, Tarka Trail and Two Moors Way long distance trails. National Cycle Network route 3 (known as the West Country Way) runs east-west through the north of the area.

Forces for change and their landscape implications

Past and current

• Past planting of coniferous shelterbelts and plantations forming conspicuous features on higher ground, on valley sides and associated with Wistlandpound Reservoir.
• Decline in woodland management including coppicing, deer damage and a spread of invasive species (including Himalayan Balsam) affecting the appearance and biodiversity of the landscape's woodlands.
• Loss of traditional orchards, particularly along riversides and near farmsteads/settlements.
• Past hedgerow removal and replacement with post-and-wire fencing, affecting the integrity of field patterns.
• Lack of hedgerow management (laying and coppicing) leading to grown out sections of beech, now susceptible to wind throw and storm damage.
• Agricultural improvement of former areas of moorland to pasture, beginning in the late 18th century and intensifying after the Second World War.
• Decline in grazing levels on moorland edges and steep valley sides, leading to a spread of bracken and gorse, particularly on upper slopes.
• Suburbanising influence of pony paddocks on edges of settlements (e.g. Stoke Rivers).
• Prominent telecommunications mast on Bratton Down.
• Expansion of Bratton Fleming and Brayford in a linear form along roads, with cream houses and bungalows standing out in the landscape.
• Increasing demand for facilities such as caravan parks, holiday accommodation and visitor attractions - many as farm diversification enterprises due to uncertainty in the agricultural economy.
• Farm growth and diversification introducing new elements into the landscape, including modern agricultural buildings, farm shops/cafes; and domestic-scale renewable energy schemes.
• Introduction of commercial scale solar farms in the landscape (e.g. to the east of Bratton Fleming). Farm based wind turbines and views to the wind farms at Fullabrook Down (DCA 44) and Batsworthy Cross (DCA 67) beginning to influence character.
• Recreation pressures and growing traffic levels on rural roads, particularly during peak holiday season. Wistlandpound Reservoir is a popular visitor destination and the site of the Calvert Trust's activity centre for the disabled.
• Heavy farm traffic leading to vehicular damage to roadside hedges and woodland; subsequent removal of vegetation by the Highways' Authority changing the character of lanes.
• Development of modern houses with no vernacular features, not fitting with the character of the area.
• Peace and tranquillity interrupted by main roads in some valleys - particularly the A399 alongside the River Bray.
• Spread of Phytopthora resulting in the felling of rhododendron and larch and ash dieback leading to the loss of ash trees.
• Effects of climate change resulting in wetter and warmer winters, and more frequent hot and dry periods (increasing the risk of drought in summer), plus more frequent extreme weather events (impacting hydrology and flood risk in the valleys).
• Land management projects including the National Trust's grassland project working to restore and create species-rich grassland habitat across North Devon, including on the Arlington Estate.

Future

• Forthcoming changes to agricultural subsidies, including the new Environmental Land Management scheme (ELMs) which will pay landowners for the delivery of public goods and services, including for the restoration of nature.
• Intensification of agriculture on more fertile valley pastures in the valleys' lower courses to meet rising food demands, leading to an increased risk of diffuse pollution in watercourses.
• Potential for new food crops (e.g. vineyards) and other crop types (medicinal, bio-energy) appearing in the landscape as a result of a change in climate and growing conditions.
• Potential loss of or change in oak and beech-dominated valley woodlands due to spread of Phytophthora and other pests and diseases linked to changing climate. Drought stress and more frequent storm events also impacting on woodland and hedgerow tree survival.
• Longer growing season and faster growth of bracken, gorse and secondary woodland due to climate change, resulting in a decrease in remaining areas of heathland and rush pasture.
• More intense periods of drought as a result of climate change, leading to the drying out of important wetland habitats including wet meadows and rush pasture. Increased autumn and winter precipitation levels leading to higher water flow and seasonal flooding in the valleys.
• Development pressure within the area and along the main A399 corridor, including the conversion of traditional buildings to homes/holiday lets, particularly due to the attractiveness of the area as a place to live.
• Population increase in nearby settlements such as Barnstaple, Combe Martin and South Molton leading to higher water supply demands and the potential need for further reservoirs in the landscape.
• Policy drive for increased woodland planting to enhance the landscape's roles in filtering water, minimising downstream flooding, storing and sequestering carbon dioxide and providing a low-carbon fuel source (through coppice management).
• Increased demand for commercial-scale wind turbines and communications masts on higher ground as well as ongoing demand for domestic and community-scale renewables, including hydro-power, which could have a cumulative impact on the landscape.
• Increase in UK-based tourism with associated requirements for new facilities and infrastructure, as well as an increase in traffic levels.

Solar farm occupying 17 hectares of south-facing land to the east of Bratton Fleming.

Landscape guidelines

Protect

• Protect the distinctive, unspoilt, and exposed skylines below the Exmoor moorland rim and the DCA's important role as a setting to the National Park.
• Protect the area's outstanding views across North Devon.
• Protect the landscape's tranquillity and remoteness with clustered villages and hamlets creating a strong historic sense of place.
• Protect and appropriately manage the rich cultural heritage of the area's hilltops, including Bronze Age barrows, Iron Age hillforts and ancient settlement remains, including through livestock grazing at appropriate levels and recreation management.
• Protect the character, setting and wildlife interest of the Grade II* Registered Arlington Court, ensuring any new development does not encroach into the historic landscape or views to it.
• Protect the sparse settlement pattern of clustered hamlets, villages and farmsteads, preventing the linear spread of development along river valleys and roads wherever possible, to maintain the settlements' characteristic form and peaceful character.
• Protect and restore historic features within the valleys, particularly those relating to the rivers' industrial heritage such as mills, dismantled railways and bridges.
• Protect the landscape's network of quiet lanes enclosed by woodland and species-rich hedgebanks, resisting unsympathetic highways improvements or signage.
• Protect and maintain the condition of the landscape's characteristic built features, such as stone hump-backed bridges.
• Protect the area's dark night skies which act as a 'buffer zone' to the nearby International Dark Sky Reserve within Exmoor National Park. Explore opportunities for noise/light attenuation around settlements and along major road corridors such as the A399.

Manage

• Encourage continuous cover management of conifer plantations for sustainable timber production, recreation and wildlife, creating new green links to surrounding semi-natural habitats as part of local nature recovery networks.
• Restore planted ancient woodland sites to semi-natural woodland.
• Manage and enhance the valleys' semi-natural woodlands through traditional techniques including coppicing and grazing to promote natural regeneration and species diversity of ground flora; explore opportunities for utilisation of coppice residues as a low-carbon fuel source.
• Manage the landscape's distinctive beech hedges to strengthen the strong square field pattern on higher ground. Respect traditional methods and styles of construction, including stone facing on banks.
• Replant lost hedges (particularly along slopes) to reinforce the distinct field patterns of the landscape, contribute to nature recovery networks, minimise soil erosion and reduce diffuse pollution.
• Sensitively manage and protect parkland trees at Arlington Court, retaining veteran trees and securing the next generation through new planting.
• Support farmers in management of 'marginal' areas as an integral part of their farming system. Manage rough grassland, heath and rush pasture through a continuation of livestock grazing at appropriate levels, along with a programme of scrub removal. Resist further agricultural intensification particularly on the moorland edges.
• Within the valleys, manage and extend species-rich meadows and floodplain grasslands through appropriate grazing and traditional land management regimes - both to enhance their wildlife value and functions in flood prevention.

Plan

• Understand changes to agricultural policy as a result of market pressures (including Brexit and increased demand for domestic food production) and identify opportunities through the new Environmental Land Management scheme (e.g. restoring traditional orchards and increasing biodiversity in upland areas).
• Potential for new agricultural income streams including payments for carbon credits and biodiversity units as part of new Biodiversity Net Gain legislation, which may result in an increase in habitat restoration and creation on farms.
• Aim for long-term restructuring of the more prominent conifer plantations and shelterbelts to mixed productive woodland and open habitats, including re-creation of heathland and rush pasture as part of local nature recovery networks. Incorporate opportunities for access and recreation wherever possible.
• Strengthen the landscape's resilience to climate change, including through new tree planting, natural succession and wetland restoration along watercourses to enhance water storage capacity in times of drought, and flood prevention during episodes of high rainfall.
• Encourage opportunities for floodplain restoration/re-connection/enhancements as well and tree planting within valleys in order to better manage flooding for downstream communities.
• Undertake new tree planting following Devon Local Nature Partnership's 'Right Place, Right Tree' principles. Avoid locations where trees would adversely affect valued characteristics of the landscape including long views and the expansive, open character of higher ground.
• Restore and manage areas of relict traditional orchards and explore opportunities to create of new ones, including community orchards to promote local food production.
• Explore options for the potential development of small-scale hydro schemes as a valuable source of renewable energy on suitable sites (both in ecological and landscape terms).
• Ensure plans for future renewable energy developments and telecommunications infrastructure consider landscape and visual effects (including cumulative effects) so that these can be sited in appropriate locations and their impacts mitigated through careful design, siting development away from where it will impact upon open views (including to Exmoor).
• Identify future development needs due to an increasing population, ensuring careful siting and design in accordance with sustainable development principles. Where possible, plan for landscape mitigation of existing poorly sited/designed development through natural screening and provision of a surrounding network of green spaces, wildlife habitats and recreational routes.
• Utilise local building styles and materials (including sandstone with slate roofs and cream cob/render) in new development wherever possible, whilst seeking to incorporate sustainable design.
• Ensure there is sustainable tourism, seeking a balance between encouraging access and reconnection with the landscape and retaining its special remote qualities, and any new facilities and infrastructure to meet increased tourism demand are sensitively sited and designed.

DCA 27 Exmoor Fringe (PDF, 1 MB)