Devon Character Areas

Rocky cove at Lee Bay

Contextual description

This Devon Character Area (DCA) comprises the north-facing coastline around Ilfracombe. To the east is the boundary with Exmoor National Park and to the south is a gradual transition into the North Devon Downs DCA. To the south-west is the North Devon Coastal Downs DCA. The boundary between the North Devon High Coast and the North Devon Coastal Downs DCAs is marked by the change in the aspect and orientation of the coastline. Apart from Ilfracombe and its surrounding hinterland, all of the landscape is within the North Devon Coast Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and is defined as Heritage Coast. The entire DCA is within North Devon District.

Link to National Character Areas and Constituent Landscape Character Types

Constituent LCTs: 4C Coastal Slopes and Combes with Settlement, 4H Cliffs, 4I Rocky Foreshores and 5C Downland.

This DCA falls within the Exmoor National Character Area (NCA 145).

Summary character description

This is an area of spectacular seascapes, with a rugged coastline containing a series of jagged rocky headlands and small coves with grey shingle beaches. There is a sense of remoteness across the western part of the area with extensive areas of colourful coastal heath and grassland, and prehistoric standing stones indicating a long history of settlement. The surroundings of Ilfracombe are more developed; its imposing Victorian architecture reflecting its evolution as a holiday destination. The enclosed, wooded coastal combes (each with their own unique character) cut through rolling, agricultural downland to the sea. Trees soften the windswept landscape of the open downland below the ridge tops.

Tunnels Beaches at Ilfracombe, viewed from the South West Coast Path.

Distinctive characteristics

• Underlying geology (exposed at the coast) of hard Devonian shales and sandstones, with banks of fossil-rich limestone.
• Dramatic and distinctive seascapes with a rugged coastline of jagged headlands and small bays of grey shingle and views across the Bristol channel to the South Wales Coast.
• Deep, steep-sided, branching combes with fast-flowing streams travelling to the sea, separated by broad, rounded ridges of agricultural land.
• Agricultural land generally of medium quality on higher land in pastoral use, with occasional arable.
• Field patterns generally older and less regular on valley sides and more recent and rectangular on higher land, indicating the later enclosure of downland.
• Fossilised medieval strip field patterns, especially around Combe Martin, providing a sense of time-depth.
• Valley fields generally enclosed by high hedgebanks, with wind-sculpted beech and gorse hedgerows on higher ground.
• Herringbone patterns of slates common in walls and hedgebanks. Morte slates and quartz boulders are distinctive vernacular features in the buildings and walls around Lee.
• Range of types and patterns of woodland within the combes, including ancient oak woodland, plantation, occasional exotic/specimen trees and more open woodland interspersed with grassland or heath.
• Extensive semi-natural habitats, including cliffs, coastal grassland and heath, inter-tidal mudflats (Watermouth Bay) and species-rich rocky foreshore, much of which is inaccessible.
• Mosaics of maritime grassland, heath, shrubby woodland and scrub along the cliff tops and sloping faces support breeding colonies of seabirds.
• Farmland habitats, including hedgerows and hedgebanks, field margins and unimproved or semi-improved grasslands.
• Numerous prehistoric sites, including standing stones and coastal hillforts, such as the nationally important example at Hillsborough.
• Working harbours and traditional maritime activities are still very much part of today's working landscape. The remains of the formerly important lead and silver mining industry feature around Combe Martin.
• The Tunnels Beaches at Ilfracombe, created as tidal bathing pools in the Victorian era, remain popular for bathing and beach activities.
• Linear settlements nestled in sheltered combes, some with working harbours. Elsewhere, scattered farmsteads are found on valley sides.
• Local vernacular characterised by a variety of styles using cob, Morte slate, thatch, whitewash and stone.
• Victorian seaside architecture in Ilfracombe; Arts and Crafts style houses at Lee; and mining and industrial buildings at Combe Martin.
• Narrow lanes with high, fern-lined banks frame views of the sea when descending into the combes, with sunken lanes around Combe Martin.
• A popular tourist destination, with caravan parks and car parks forming prominent features in the open and often exposed landscape.
• The higher land of Exmoor forms a backdrop to views in the eastern part of the area.
• Long, uninterrupted views across the Bristol Channel from the coastal edge, with Lundy Island forming a focal point on otherwise open skylines.

Wooded slopes of Hillsborough nature reserve and hillfort.

Special qualities and features

Exceptionally high scenic quality, largely within the North Devon Coast AONB and Heritage Coast; the eastern part of the area also forms the setting to Exmoor National Park.

Geological Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSIs), including the only formations of aragonite crystals in the UK at Napps Cave, and Devonian stratigraphy, palaeontology and palaeogeography at Hele, Samson's and Combe Martin Bays.

Regionally Important Geological Sites covering geological exposures at Tunnel Beach, Blythes Cove and Rapparee Cove.

Nationally important habitats at Morte Point SSSI, with coastal heath and grassland habitats supporting nesting seabirds including fulmar, cormorant and shag. Extensive coverage of County Wildlife Sites, including ancient woodland in combes, coastal heathland, unimproved grasslands and wetland areas.

The coastline adjoins the Bideford to Foreland Point Marine Conservation Zone (MCZ), valued for its range of intertidal habitats and for providing connectivity between North Devon and Cornwall MCZ sites.

Scheduled Monuments at Hillsborough promontory hillfort (which is also a Local Nature Reserve and valued recreational asset) and prehistoric standing stones near Lee.

Conservation Areas covering the village cores of Berrynarbor and Lee, and Ilfracombe town centre; and numerous listed buildings, including churches, Watermouth Castle (Grade II*), early farmhouses, agricultural and industrial buildings (including limekilns, silver mines and other mineral workings).

The historic harbour and ancient quay at Ilfracombe with its long associations with fishing, ship-building and cross-channel trade. The Grade I listed St Nicholas' Chapel contains one of the UK's oldest working lighthouses.

Stone church towers at Combe Martin and Berrynarbor form local landmark features.

Numerous wreck sites lie just off the treacherous coastline which are often clustered around headlands and offshore rocks. These include the London which was wrecked off Rapparee Cove in 1796.

Extensive areas of National Trust owned and managed land in the western part of the area (e.g. the Morthoe, Lee and Torrs Park estates).

Good network of public rights of way, including the South West Coast Path which runs along the cliff tops.

High levels of tranquillity, especially in the western part of the area.

Forces for change and their landscape implications

Past and current

• Post-war intensification of farming leading to field enlargement (loss of hedgerows and hedgebanks) and a spread of intensive farmland backing the cliffs, fragmenting areas of coastal heath and maritime grassland. Some pastoral land has been converted to arable use.
• Farm diversification schemes (e.g. quad biking, equine business, campsites) adding new elements into the landscape.
• Amalgamation of farms into larger holdings, changing the traditional appearance of the landscape (e.g. through the construction of large agricultural buildings).
• Cumulative impacts of ash dieback (Hymenoscyphus fraxineus) on the network of hedges, hedgerow trees, small copses and woodland and the resulting change in tree/woodland composition and landscape character.
• Some traditional hedge boundaries replaced/augmented by post and wire fencing where livestock is kept (e.g. south of Berrynarbor).
• Encroachment of bracken, gorse and young secondary woodland onto remaining areas of open coastal habitats as a result of a long-term decline in grazing and traditional management such as swaling (controlled burning of moorland).
• Change in woodland / tree species composition impacting on the characteristic coastal woodlands at Lee, as new pests/diseases spread (e.g. Phytopthora pathogens) and species intolerant of water level extremes die back.
• Increasing levels of coastal erosion and storm damage as a result of climate change/sea level rise impacting on some sections of the South West Coast Path, e.g. at Rockham Bay.
• Past planting of conifers in combes (particularly in the Sterridge and Borough valleys), with some new, replanted woodland on slopes above Combe Martin.
• New tree planting as a result of new government targets and to mitigate flooding and water quality issues, for example in the Umber Valley near Combe Martin.
• Tourism-related development of the coastline east of Ilfracombe, including harbours, villages, the coast road, golf course and numerous car parks and caravan sites.
• Erosion and recreation pressure around coastal resorts, and on popular paths and routes including the South West Coast Path.
• Linear housing extending along roads around Berrynarbor has altered the undeveloped character in places.
• Conversion of traditional and modern agricultural buildings to residential properties as a result of high demand for housing/accommodation within the AONB. This is particularly notable around Lee, Ilfracombe and Berrynarbor.
• Introduction of new modern building styles, especially around Lee, resulting in change to the traditional vernacular and landscape character.
• Increased levels of traffic (particularly in summer) affecting the tranquil character of the narrow rural lanes. Visually intrusive road signs are also bringing incremental change to the rural character of the lanes.
• Light spill from Ilfracombe and other settlements outside the area resulting in the loss of dark night skies.
• Telecommunications masts on prominent hill summits, detracting from the smooth, open skylines of the downland ridges.
• Turbines at Fullabrook Down Wind Farm and Mullacott Cross (in adjacent DCA 44) forming prominent moving structures above the smooth open hill summits.

Traditional hedge boundaries have been lost or replaced with fencing in some places, particularly on higher ground.

Future

• Forthcoming changes to agricultural subsidies, (including the new Environmental Land Management scheme which will pay landowners for the delivery of public goods and services, including for the restoration of nature) potentially affecting the management of characteristic landscape features such as coastal heaths, species-rich grasslands, hedgerows and woodlands.
• Continued demand for residential development (particularly around Ilfracombe and Combe Martin) affecting the traditional form and character of settlements.
• Ongoing tourism-related development (including expansion of holiday camps and increased numbers of permanent buildings in sites) resulting in further incremental change to landscape character.
• Potential effects of the future expansion of Ilfracombe Harbour on the setting of Hillsborough Hillfort.
• The future designation of the England Coast Path.
• Changes in seasonal weather patterns and the introduction of new species, pests and diseases resulting from climate change, potentially affecting semi-natural habitats such as woodland (including hedgerow trees and other trees outside of woodlands) and heaths, as well as agricultural practices.
• Higher sea level and storm frequency leading to increased coastal erosion. The Shoreline Management Plan recommends 'no active intervention' (although sea defences at Lee, Ilfracombe, Watermouth and Combe Martin will be retained), potentially causing 'coastal squeeze' between the eroding shoreline and agricultural land behind.
• Impacts of climate change on characteristic heathland and maritime grassland habitats, with potential for increased growth rates accelerating the spread of scrub and trees into the open coastal landscape, along with an increased prevalence of pests and diseases.
• Increase in renewable energy sources, including biomass crops, solar arrays, offshore and onshore wind farms and tidal and wave energy which could have a cumulative landscape impact.
• Impact of tree-planting schemes in response to government targets and funding opportunities such as the England Tree Action Plan and England Woodland Creation Offer.

Beach-side cafe and car parking at Hele Bay. Tourist facilities are a common feature along this stretch of coastline.

Landscape guidelines

Protect

• Protect the high scenic quality of the area within (or as a setting to) the North Devon Coast AONB.
• Protect the area's function as part of the setting to Exmoor National Park.
• Protect the area's distinctive and dramatic seascapes that contribute to the coastal character and sense of place.
• Protect open skylines from inappropriate development including telecommunications masts and large-scale wind turbines.
• Protect the contained form of settlement within the combes, resisting further spread or coalescence.
• Protect the landscape's traditional building styles and materials, particularly cob, Morte slate, thatch, whitewash and stone.
• Protect the landscape's network of winding rural lanes, resisting unsympathetic highways improvements (e.g. hedgerow/woodland cutting) or signage. Promote sustainable transport options to reduce traffic levels during busy holiday periods.
• Protect ancient oak woodlands in coastal combes. Control access by livestock, promoting natural regeneration to enhance longevity whilst using extensive grazing to promote the diversity of woodland ground flora.
• Protect historic features and landmarks such as church towers and strip field patterns, to ensure they remain integral parts of the landscape.
• Protect traditionally farmed areas and resist further agricultural intensification which has resulted in field enlargement and conversion of some areas to intensive arable farming.

Manage

• Manage farm diversification so that it is sensitive to the landscape and avoid the introduction of prominent and uncharacteristic features (e.g. industrial-scale modern farm buildings).
• Manage, sustain and support agricultural use, increasing the biodiversity of farmland, providing incentives for farmers to graze 'marginal' land such as unimproved grassland and coastal heath as an integral part of their farming systems (including through the new Environmental Land Management schemes and other initiatives).
• Manage hedgerows and replace lost or over mature hedgerow trees and wind-sculpted tree belts; restore lost field patterns where possible.
• Manage and re-link woodlands, encouraging the use of traditional techniques such as coppicing, and retaining the diversity of woodland types within the area.
• Manage and re-link semi-natural coastal habitats to maximise their biodiversity and strengthen their resistance to coastal squeeze and climate change. Restore and develop areas of coastal heath and create buffer zones between cliff communities and improved agricultural land where possible.
• Manage archaeological sites, controlling visitor pressure and providing sensitive interpretation where appropriate.
• Manage recreational use of the area to ensure a sustainable balance between recreation and conservation interests.

Plan

• Plan for changes to agriculture as a result of market pressures (including Brexit and increased demand for domestic food production) and new agricultural funding support schemes. New crops may also become viable as a result of climate change and the potential landscape impacts of these should be considered.
• Plan for future effects of climate change along the coast, allowing natural processes to take place as much as possible, whilst ensuring local people are involved in decision-making relating to future landscapes.
• Encourage a diverse mix of habitats and nature recovery networks, including plantations, broadleaved woodland and grassland.
• Create, extend and link woodland and wetland habitats to enhance the water storage capacity of the landscape (reducing downstream flooding) and improve water quality by reducing soil erosion and agricultural run-off.
• Encourage natural flood management interventions to reduce the risk of downstream flooding.
• Enhance areas of coniferous plantation, encouraging a move towards mixed stocking and the restoration of open habitats (as well as maintaining areas of sustainable timber production and exploring opportunities for enhancing access/recreational use).
• Encourage natural regeneration of woodland, ensuring that any new planting is in line with the Devon Local Nature Partnership Right Place, Right Tree guidance to retain and enhance the distinctive characteristics of the landscape. Aim to connect fragmented sites, including within combes and on steep coastal slopes.
• Restore lost or degraded lengths of hedgerow to strengthen ecological connectivity and natural flood management whilst respecting the characteristic local field patterns. Follow guidelines published by Devon Hedge Group.
• Ensure future settlement expansion is sensitively designed and sited, to avoid detrimental impacts to landscape character. Seek to mitigate the impacts of development through sensitive planting and lighting schemes.
• Reduce light pollution from roads and settlements, exploring options for reduced lighting including at road junctions.
• Any new development or extensions should utilise the same materials and building styles wherever possible (whilst seeking to incorporate sustainable and low carbon building construction and design).
• Develop a landscape that is resilient to increasing levels of recreational use and tourism. Ensure that the siting and design of new tourism-related development and infrastructure respects the local built character and is sympathetic to the landscape.
• Explore and increase provision of sustainable travel options (including public transport and active travel networks) to reduce road traffic during busy holiday periods.
• Create green infrastructure links to and from coastal resorts and the South West Coast Path to facilitate recreation, reduce car usage and enhance the natural settings of settlements.
• Ensure plans for renewable energy and telecoms infrastructure (including masts and onshore and offshore renewable energy installations) consider landscape and visual effects, including cumulative effects, and their impacts mitigated through careful siting and design.

DCA 45 North Devon High Coast (PDF) [1MB]