Devon Character Areas

View north across Woolacombe Bay from Putsborough. © North Devon Coast AONB - photographer Neville Stanikk.

Contextual description

This is a relatively small Devon Character Area (DCA) comprising the westward facing coast and its hinterland between Saunton Down and Morte Point. To the north is a gradual transition to the North Devon High Coast DCA (where the downland landform is less dominant and there is more woodland) and to the east is another gradual transition to the North Devon Downs DCA. This transition is marked by a gradual reduction in the influence of the sea. To the south is the flat, estuarine landscape of the Taw-Torridge Estuary. All of the landscape is within the North Devon Coast Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and is defined as Heritage Coast. Saunton Down and Croyde are within the buffer zone of the North Devon Biosphere Reserve.

Link to National Character Areas and Constituent Landscape Character Types

Constituent LCTs: 2C Steep Open Slopes, 4C Coastal Slopes and Combes with Settlement, 4E Extensive Inter-Tidal Sands, 4F Dunes, 4I Rocky Foreshores, 4H Cliffs and 5C Downland.

This DCA falls within the Exmoor National Character Area (NCA 145).

Summary character description

This is a landscape of contrasts, dominated by its seascape. There are wide westerly views to the sea, with the long, low outline of Lundy visible on the horizon, and views across Bideford Bay as far as Hartland Point. A series of rolling downland ridges run on to long headlands interspersed with sandy beaches. The smooth downland has an elevated, open, character, whilst the rough headlands feel wild, remote and windswept. The beaches are crowded with holidaymakers in summer, but in winter they feel empty and desolate. This is a colourful landscape - green fields; golden sands; vivid purple and yellow heath; brown and grey rocks; and glorious sunsets - but its mood is always set by the ever-changing sea.

Baggy Point from Woolacombe Down. © North Devon Coast AONB.

Distinctive characteristics

• Northern part of area underlain by fossil-rich Devonian Morte slates, and the southern part by Devonian red and brown sandstone.
• Topography forming a repeating pattern of smooth-profiled downland ridges with steep side slopes, running east-west.
• Ridges running into long headlands (Morte Point, Baggy Point and Saunton Down) with smooth upper profiles and rocky sides descending to rugged shorelines.
• Headlands sheltering a series of sandy beaches, including Croyde Bay and Woolacombe Sands.
• Occasional spring-fed streams flowing through relatively steep valleys to the sea.
• Distinctive coastal character with a strong transition from the rolling downland to the jagged, rocky ridgeline extending to Morte Point.
• An open, expansive landscape with few trees and smooth horizons; trees largely limited to occasional wind-sculpted pines, and patches of scrub; tree Clump at Oxford Cross (originally planted by Henry Williamson) is a distinctive feature.
• Agriculture predominantly pastoral (sheep grazing), with some arable land on sheltered sites and further inland.
• Smaller fields divided by hedges or hedgebanks (often faced with local Morte slates) on lower land, but larger, more open and regular fields on higher land.
• Important ecological mosaic of coastal heath, maritime cliff and foreshore habitats, supporting valuable and diverse populations of birds, insects, reptiles, plants, ferns and lichens.
• Active dune systems at Croyde and Woolacombe Warren supporting a wide variety of plants; further inland, unimproved grassland that supports grass, herb, butterfly and bird species.
• Historic landscape features include 14th century cultivation terraces above Saunton (Scheduled Monument), and historic field patterns around Croyde, Mortehoe and Georgeham, where hedges or stone-faced banks (including distinctive examples faced with Morte slate) create narrow strip fields.
• A lookout post on the cliffs near Putsborough, and chain of 'dummy pillboxes' along Baggy Point, reflect the area's strong associations with the Second World War
• Distinctive traditional buildings with cob, thatch, local stone and hung slates (the latter particularly in exposed locations). The Grade I listed churches at Georgeham and Mortehoe form local landmarks.
• Victorian linear expansion of settlements such as Woolacombe and Croyde for tourism. Modern caravan and holiday parks on hillsides detract from the traditional character and tranquillity.
• Panoramic views across the bay from Morte Point and Baggy Point. Views to Hartland Point Headland and the distinctive long, low profile of Lundy Island on the horizon. Distant views to Worm's Head (in the Gower, Wales) can also be experienced.

Characteristic narrow lane enclosed by sparsely topped Devon hedgebanks, south of Pickwell.

Special qualities and features

A landscape of very high scenic quality, being within the North Devon Coast AONB and North Devon Heritage Coast, with spectacular coastal views and seascapes encompassing magnificent beaches and dramatic cliffs.

High levels of tranquillity away from settlements.

Important maritime and coastal habitats including Saunton to Baggy Point Coast Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI - cliffs, foreshore and small active dune system) and Morte SSSI (extensive area of sea cliff and foreshore).

The coastline is within the Exmoor Coasts and Heaths Important Bird Area, with coastal heath and grassland habitats supporting nesting seabirds including fulmar, cormorant and shag.

The coastline adjoins the Bideford to Foreland Point Marine Conservation Zone (MCZ), valued for its range of intertidal habitats and for providing connectivity between North Devon and Cornwall MCZ sites.

Many County Wildlife Sites, including unimproved grasslands and the sand dune system at Woolacombe Warren.

Exposed geological features (including the remains of a fossilised fish preserved within bands of volcanic ash and shale) designated as SSSIs or Regionally Important Geological Sites.Several wreck sites lying off the coast, including the HMS Weazle and the Ceres.

Numerous listed buildings, including manor houses, farms, churches and the white painted Saunton Sands Hotel, which is an example of the Art Deco style.

Conservation Areas covering the village cores of Croyde, Georgeham, Putsborough, Woolacombe and Mortehoe.

Saunton Court (designed by Edwin Lutyens) listed Grade II on the Register of Historic Parks and Gardens.

Literary associations with Henry Williamson, who wrote Tarka the Otter whilst living in Georgeham.

Large areas of land owned by the National Trust, including the Croyde Estate (Baggy Point) and part of the Mortehoe Estate (from Woolacombe Down to Morte Point).

Extensive access land along the coast and South West Coast Path following the cliff edges.

A popular holiday destination, with beaches packed with visitors in the summer and attractions including surfing events and the National Sandcastle Competition.

Forces for change and their landscape implications

Past and current

• Post-war intensification of agriculture spurred on by CAP-related subsidies in the 1970s, leading to field enlargement and a spread of intensive arable cultivation along some downland farmland backing the cliffs.
• Poor maintenance of stone-faced hedgebanks, resulting in their gradual loss from the landscape.
• Loss of species-rich coastal grassland and heath to scrub and bracken through changes in grazing practices and abandonment of marginal land (e.g. coastal cliff slopes at Challacombe Hill).
• Land management projects on National Trust land including fenceless grazing of dunes on Woolacombe Down by native cattle breeds to improve the quality of the semi-natural habitats and the current grassland project, restoring and creating species rich-grasslands on the slopes above Woolacombe.
• Increasing levels of tourism-related development such as holiday parks, hotels, caravan/camping sites and related infrastructure, affecting the wild character and dark skies of the area - particularly as development extends into prominent, elevated locations (e.g. Woolacombe Bay).
• Holiday parks extending into undeveloped areas of the coast and its hinterland, and becoming more permanent - e.g. the change from touring pitches to static caravans and permanent lodges.
• High volumes of tourist traffic (particularly on coastal roads such as the B3231 and the Esplanade), seasonally reducing the tranquillity of the area.
• Damage to coastal heath and dune systems as a result of trampling.
• Some WWII pillboxes and a 17th century burial ground for shipwrecked sailors have been lost to the sea along the fast-eroding virgin cliff between Downend and Chesil Point.
• Military activity on Braunton Burrows to the south (within the adjacent Taw-Torridge Estuary DCA) occasionally impacting upon the wild and tranquil qualities of the landscape.
• Telecoms masts (including those on Saunton Down and Ora Hill) interrupting the smooth profile of the downland. Some overhead lines around Mortehoe and Woolacombe have already been removed with investment from Western Power.
• Conversion of traditional agricultural buildings to modern residential properties (many of which are holiday lets) resulting in a change to their character and setting.
• Light pollution from larger towns to the south affecting the experience of dark night skies and reducing the visibility of stars.
• Intrusion of built development in settlements such as Westward Ho! into views southwards across the Taw-Torridge Estuary.
• The turbines of Fullabrook Down Wind Farm in DCA 44 form strongly visible moving structures on the skyline in easterly views, impacting on perceptions of remoteness.
• Changes in building style from traditional designs to large, modern style architecture with large windows. Most prevalent in Croyde and along Saunton Row overlooking the beach.
• Effects of climate change resulting in wetter and warmer winters, and more frequent hot and dry periods increasing the risk of drought in summer, plus more frequent extreme weather events such as storms, and sea level rise as result of increasing global temperatures.

Future

• Forthcoming changes to agricultural subsidies, including the new Environmental Land Management scheme which will pay landowners for the delivery of public goods and services, including for the restoration of nature.
• Actions arising from the North Devon UNESCO Biosphere Reserve Nature Recovery Plan, 2021-25 which aim to make space for nature, restore ecosystems and increase landscape dynamism by integrating nature recovery into the management of land within the Biosphere.
• Continued growth in popularity of the area for tourism and recreation, with associated impacts on tranquillity, traffic congestion and remaining areas of undeveloped coast.
• The future designation of the England Coast Path.
• Increasing popularity of the seascape for surfing and other watersports, bringing potential for wildlife disturbance (including grey seals which haul out at Morte Point). These concerns are being communicated and addressed voluntarily through a Code of Conduct developed and promoted by the North Devon Biosphere Reserve.
• Increasing demand for larger residential development, extending beyond existing settlement boundaries or replacing existing buildings with a scale and architectural style that is not always sympathetic to the setting and character of the area.
• Impacts of climate change on characteristic open maritime grassland and coastal heathland habitats, with potentially increased growth rates accelerating the spread of scrub, as well as an increased prevalence of pests and diseases.
• Increased coastal erosion as a result of rising sea levels, and increased strength and frequency of storms, which could result in the loss of beach and dune systems, and 'coastal squeeze' of habitats such as Woolacombe Warren between the eroding shoreline and agricultural land behind. The current Shoreline Management Plan policy is for 'no active intervention' and to allow natural processes to take place along this coast.
• Loss of sand dunes, resulting from higher sea levels, and greater wave energy due to increased frequency and intensity of storms. Changes may also occur in the volumes of sand being deposited.
• Coastal erosion/squeeze may also result in the loss of undesignated heritage assets and recreational facilities including the South West Coast Path. Coastal properties at Putsborough (protected by rock armour) may be at risk.
• Potential changes in the water table may affect dune systems and artificially-drained areas in adjacent landscapes such as Braunton Marsh.
• Continued demand for renewable energy schemes, including tidal and wave power, offshore and onshore wind turbines, solar farms and smaller-scale domestic schemes, all potentially affecting the character of the area with a cumulative impact on landscape character and views.

New tree planting on farmed slopes east of Croyde.

Scrub encroachment on steeper ungrazed slopes on Challacombe Hill.

Landscape guidelines

Protect

• Protect the area's distinctive seascapes which contribute to the coastal character of the area.
• Protect the open character of the area and its long-ranging views, resisting the further linear spread of tourist development from settlements. Avoid new developments on the cliff edge.
• Protect the smooth profiles of open downland which form the backdrop to the area, ensuring new development avoids the most prominent open skylines and far-reaching views.
• Protect traditionally farmed areas and resist further agricultural intensification.
• Protect and appropriately manage the landscape's archaeological features, including ancient cultivation terraces on the slopes above Saunton, historic quarries and World War II features. Manage scrub encroachment by supporting extensive grazing at appropriate levels, and protect the sites from erosion by managing public access.
• Protect historic settlements from unsympathetic expansion and avoid the loss of locally distinctive buildings to redevelopment.
• Protect traditional building styles and materials, particularly cob, Morte slate, thatch, whitewash and stone; ensure that any new development is sympathetic in terms of style and location, whilst incorporating sustainable design.
• Protect the character of the winding rural lanes, resisting intrusive signage and unsympathetic highways improvements. Promote sustainable transport options to reduce traffic levels during busy holiday periods.
• Protect and manage the historic gardens at Saunton Court, replacing mature specimen trees when necessary.
• Protect the sense of tranquillity and dark night skies. Explore opportunities to introduce mitigation to areas where this is an existing issue (e.g. light pollution from highway infrastructure and existing settlements).

Manage

• Manage, extend and re-link the diverse range of nationally important coastal habitats (including heath, dunes and coastal grassland) to enhance their biodiversity, and increase their resilience to rising sea levels and more extreme weather events.
• Increase the areas of coastal heathland on Woolacombe Down, Saunton Down and Baggy Point, and create buffer zones between cliff communities and improved agricultural land where possible.
• Manage agricultural land and sustain agricultural use, encouraging farmers to repair features such as hedgerows and hedgebanks, and to graze 'marginal' areas such as coastal grassland and heath as integral parts of their farming systems.
• Manage active sand dune systems through appropriate levels of grazing and access.
• Manage visitor pressure to minimise damage to fragile habitats and achieve a sustainable balance between conservation and recreational interests.
• Manage recreational use of the area both on land and in the water to ensure that habitats and wildlife and conserved. Promote the Code of Conduct developed by the North Devon Biosphere Reserve.
• Manage the network of distinctive stone-faced hedges, restoring lost lengths to reinforce historic field patterns. Ensure any new sections replicate traditional styles of construction (e.g. patterns of stone facing) and species composition.

Plan

• Reduce and/or mitigate the visual impact of existing and future tourist facilities such as caravan parks, particularly in prominent locations.
• Ensure new facilities and infrastructure to meet increased tourism demand are sensitively sited and designed to conserve and enhance the distinctive characteristics, valued attributes and special qualities of the landscape that make it attractive to visitors.
• Encourage sensitive tourism and recreation activity, seeking to link and create access routes with the aim of encouraging exploration of inland landscapes and taking pressure off the coast.
• Develop sustainable transport systems to reduce the number of cars on roads. This could be achieved through facilitating more active travel (particularly walking and cycling), through improved Green Infrastructure networks linking the landscape with local settlements, including Braunton), and tourism 'shuttle services' from coastal resorts to places of interest.
• Mitigate the effects of climate change, particularly coastal squeeze, seeking to expand and link semi-natural habitats and wildlife networks as part of local nature recovery networks.
• Plan for the future effects of climate change along the coast, allowing natural processes to take place as much as possible, whilst ensuring local people are involved in decision-making relating to future landscapes.
• Plan for the impact of tree pests and diseases on the landscape and replace lost trees with resilient specimens.
• Utilise the new Environmental Land Management Schemes and other initiatives (as they emerge) to manage and enhance the wildlife interest of the farmed landscape and contribute to nature recovery networks.
• Respond to changes to agriculture as a result of market pressures and post-Brexit changes to support payments. New crops may become viable and the potential landscape impacts of these should be considered.
• Plan for future need for energy and telecoms infrastructure in the area including masts and onshore and offshore renewable energy installations, so that these can be sited in appropriate locations and their impacts mitigated through careful design. Ensure plans for new renewable energy developments consider landscape and visual effects, including cumulative effects.
• Ensure future settlement expansion is sensitively sited and designed to avoid detrimental landscape impacts. Seek to mitigate the impacts of existing unsympathetic development, for example through new tree/hedgerow planting.
• Embrace opportunities for tree/woodland planting in the landscape as part of the UK-wide policy drive for increased woodland planting. These include opportunities for improved woodland management and new planting/natural regeneration on coastal slopes, where grazing levels have declined in recent decades. New landscape-led planting should align with the Devon Local Nature Partnership's 'Right Place, Right Tree' guidance.
• Avoid locating new woodland where it would have a detrimental impact on the iconic views to and from this landscape.
• Create, extend and link woodland and wetland habitats to enhance the water storage capacity of the landscape (reducing future incidences of downstream flooding) and improve water quality through reducing soil erosion and agricultural run-off.
• Create green infrastructure links to and from the landscape's coastal resorts and the South West Coast Path, to facilitate more recreational opportunities, reduce the use of private cars, and enhance the natural setting of development.

DCA 43 North Devon Coastal Downs (PDF) [1MB]